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          憶 南 京！     紀毓鼎（1915-2005）

Memories of Nanjing

譯者 Tanslator：Crystal Tai (the author's granddaughter)

南京古稱金陵，是六朝勝地。歷代豪華，秦淮煙柳，多少風光，數之不盡。

Nanjing used to be called Jingling. It was the capital of six dynasties. Picturesque were countless glorious relics of those dynasties and the willow-tree-lined Qinhuai River in the mist.

余就讀之文化大學一部份在漢西門內龍蟠裡的胡公祠，有亭臺樓閣之勝。背負青山，瀕臨烏龍潭水，景緻絕佳。另一部份在祠東，為新建洋房，屬教室群。其地臨虎踞關，接連清涼山，就形勢言，確實若虎踞若龍蟠。

I was attending Culture University, part of which was located around Hu's Temple in the Crouching Dragon Sub-district inside of the West Han Gate. There were traditional-Chinese-style chambers and pavilions on campus, with green mountains behind and Black Dragon Lake in front. The view was superb! To the east of the temple, there were newly built Western-style classrooms. This area was next to Crouching Tiger Gate as well as Mount Cool (the phonetic translation of the name is “Qingliang”). The terrain did look like crouching tigers and dragons to me.

山頂主峰有江天一覽亭，登臨縱目，一望無際，江流直瀉，衆山環拱，宮牆掩映，如畫如圖。周圍有紫金山，湯山，牛首山，雨花臺，玄武湖，莫愁湖，北極閣，燕子磯，石頭城，古台城，歷史遺跡，數不勝數。

On top of the peak, there was a pavilion named Panoramic View. Looking out from the pavilion, one would see no boundaries. The river ran down powerfully, surrounded by mountains and some walls of old palaces. The view resembled a landscape painting. Around the pavilion were Mount Zijin (which means “purple and gold” in Chinese), Mount Tang, Mount Niushou (which means “bull head” in Chinese), Yuhuatai (which means “rain and flowers” in Chinese) Hill, Xuanwu Lake, Mochou (which means “no frowning” in Chinese) Lake, Northernmost Chamber, Swallow Breakwater, the Stonestown, and relics of ancient palaces. There were countless historical sites.

龍蟠裡在清涼山西嶺，下麵即石頭城。江水曾經直沖城下，爾後逐漸改道北移，昔日流經之處，今為一片沙洲。荒煙蔓草啟人思古之幽情。

The Crouching Dragon Sub-district was on the western side of Mount Cool. The Stonestown was right beneath it. The Yangtze River once ran right by the old town, but later changed its course and moved north. The area where the river had been was just marshland. The misty wilderness with wild grasses provoked my thoughts of history.

由龍蟠裡拾級登山，到古刹清涼寺。寺前為掃葉樓，規模巨集敞，古色古香。憑欄遠眺，上吞霄漢，下壓石城，左扼雨花臺，右襟江浦，面對莫愁，人隱碧嶂，幽靜絕塵，餘深愛之。

I often went stair climbing from the Crouching Dragon Sub-district to the historical Cool Temple. In front of the temple was Leave Sweeping Chamber, which was grand, with colors and fragrances from history. I leaned by the railing of the chamber, looking far out. Above me was the endless sky and beneath me the Stonestown. Yuhuatai was on my left and the Yangtze River on my right. I was facing Mochou Lake, feeling as if being a hermit in the green mountains. It was such a serene and ethereal place. I loved it deeply.

憶其樓中懸有長聯曰：

誰將此山名以清涼  閲世幾興亡  可憐多少繁華夢

我與斯人同其感遇  登樓一憑眺  但聽蕭疏落葉聲

I remember a long couplet hanging in the chamber. It read:

Who gave the Cool name to this peak? It watched the rise and fall of several dynasties, lamenting on the losses of many splendid dreams.

I share these tender feelings with that person. I see the far and near around this chamber, listening to the sounds of some falling leaves.

龍蟠裡大路是由漢西門起，沿城腳根，繞經清涼山，至虎踞關，左擁青山，右環潭水，真是名實相符！每日黃昏飯後，三五同學嘗登城頭散步。城頭寬廣，可以行駛汽車。人在城上，舉目千里，俯瞰城中宮殿樓臺，都在腳下。尤其西望長江，匹練懸空，若天際飛來，氣勢之雄，確是奇觀。

The main road of the Crouching Dragon Sub-district started from the West Han Gate, went along a wall of the old town, and looped around Mount Cool to reach the Crouching Tiger Gate, which embraced green mountains on the left and a lake on the right. It certainly deserves its name! Every evening after dinner, I took a walk with three or five classmates at dusk. We climbed stairs to the top of the old town's wall. The top was wide enough for automobiles to run there. When we were at the top, we saw beyond thousands of miles. Ancient palaces and chambers were beneath us. We looked west to the Yangtze River, which came like a huge waterfall from the sky! The magnificent view was very rare to come by.

時二舅父為南京名律師，初住城南鳴羊街胡家花園。庭中廣植牡丹數十株，每逢花季，萬紫千紅，香籠簾幕。該園本是明初中山王徐達舊業，不知何時入胡氏名下。園內右為假山群及大片廳堂屋宇，左為巨湖，周圍有土山，崗巒起伏，疏林掩映，樓閣紛呈，一如紅樓夢中大觀園之佈局。

At the time, my second uncle on my mother's side was a famous lawyer in Nanjing. When he first moved to Nanjing, he lived in Hu's Villa at Mingyang Street in the southern area of the city. The garden of the villa had dozens of peony plants. During their flowering season, bountiful purple and red blooms brightened the garden and perfumed the beaded curtains around the mansion. This villa first belonged to Sir Xu Da during the beginning of the Ming Dynasty. Later, not sure exactly when, it became the Hu family's property. Walking into the garden, I saw artistically displayed huge rocks and many buildings on my right, as well as a huge lake on my left. The lake was surrounded by hills, woods, and chambers. The layout of the estate resembled that of the Grandview Garden in The Dream of the Red Chamber (a critically acclaimed classical Chinese novel).

嗣二舅父在千章巷購一宅，雖缺湖山之美，但有三重庭院，花樹亭台，引人入勝。正屋雕梁畫棟，古色古香，軒敞華麗，亦頗雅緻。

Later my second uncle purchased a home at Qianzhang Alley. It did not have hills or a lake but came with three gardens, where flowers, trees, pavilions and terraces fascinated visitors. The main house had carved beams and painted pillars, all in classical Chinese style. The grand mansion was opulent but tasteful at the same time.

余在南京或住舅父家，或住胡公祠學校內，年少不知刻苦，只圖安樂。每逢寒暑假回家，總是先由南京坐火車到鎮江住旅社，次日乘輪船過江，經揚州，直駛泰州，停一夜，第三日再乘輪到曲塘。那時家中會派人來接，或由錢莊派人送回鄉下。可見祖母與父親多麽寵愛！

During my years in Nanjing, I sometimes stayed with my uncle and sometimes lived on campus. I did not know how to work hard as a young man. I only wanted to have fun. Whenever I returned home for my winter or summer break, I first took a train from Nanjing to Zhenjiang and stayed at a hotel there for the night. The next day I boarded a ship to cross the Yangtze River, passing Yangzhou, to stop in downtown Taizhou overnight. On the third day, I took a boat to Qutang (a suburban town with a poetic Chinese name, which means “winding pond”). Then my family would send someone to pick me up, or our private bank in Qutang would have someone give me a ride to my country home. That showed how much my grandmother and father spoiled me.

南京文化大學為軍閥閻錫山，馮玉祥合創。雖一度由黨國元老于右任出任校長，但基本涉及政治敏感，立案問題懸而不決，影響學生前途。餘乃請求參加教育部考試，通過後得以插班公立大學三年級。考慮前往哪所大學之時，逢祖母之喪，同鄉劉星晨先生前來祭奠。劉先生為法國留學博士，正執教河南大學經濟系。談及我學業，即建議報名河大轉學考試。當時開學在即，未能等待祖母之喪終七，實為遺憾，但轉學考試順利通過，必是祖母庇蔭。

Culture University in Nanjing was founded by warlords Yang Xishan and Feng Yuxiang. Although it once had Yu Youren, a senior officer of the Nationalist Party, as its chancellor, it still encountered some prejudice because of politics. It kept waiting for the Nationalist government's official recognition, and that seemed to have a negative impact on the students' future. So, I asked the Department of Education to give me a qualifying exam which would make me eligible to transfer to the junior class of any public university. When I was thinking about which university to transfer to, my grandmother passed away and a fellow townsman, Liu Xingchen, came to her funeral. Dr. Liu had earned his Ph. D from France. He was teaching economics at Henan University. When we talked about my education, he suggested that I apply for Henan University. Since school was going to start soon, I was unable to stay until after completing the 49-day mourning period for my grandmother (Chinese culture used to require every deceased person's offspring to conduct memorial services for 49 days).  That was a real regret. However, I easily passed the transfer exams. That must have resulted from my grandmother's blessings.

轉入河大之後，很少有機會再去南京。然而金陵美景難忘，一生回味無窮。

Once I transferred to Henan University, I hardly had a chance to go to Nanjing again. However, I can never forget the beauty of Nanjing, which I keep revisiting through my memories.

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【法奶日報www.lulijen.com2015.4.22.出刊，第9-1376號】